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My trip to Balkhash was my first long bus journey in Kazakhstan, a 10-hour overnight trip.  On the way to the bus station, I get talking to my taxi driver, a sweet old Kazakh man, who introduces himself as Nulet.  When I told him where I was going he immediately warned me that it was…

I’m the second passenger on the minibus from Dushanbe to Hissar, which means I get my choice of seat, but the downside is there could be a long wait until it fills up and we can finally leave.  For the driver — who’s wearing a traditional felt hat and colourful coat — and one lady…

Two days into my stay in Dushanbe I was invited to visit Garm, a small city in the semi-lawless Rasht valley, to interview some potato farmers. So of course I said why not.  One of the nice expats I met in Segafredo told me about a project to help farmers diversify funded by the Organisation…

After days on the road, it’s time to relax and explore Tajikistan’s capital Dushanbe.  I’ms saying right on central Rudaki Avenue, close to the Opera and Ballet Theatre. It was too dark to see much when we arrived late last night, but in the morning I stroll along Rudaki Avenue, taking in the white and…

Just like Kyrgyzstan to the north, Tajikistan is divided by high mountain ranges.  In winter the road between Dushanbe and the northern cities of Khujend, Istaravshan and Isfara is cut off as the high mountain roads become too dangerous.  Luckily I’m travelling in autumn, before the snows begin. In fact the temperatures are still in…

Early on Monday morning I’m waiting outside the Hotel Leninabad, bag packed, ready for Jyldyz’s husband’s friend to come and pick me up and drive me to Istaravshan.  Zohirjon, when he arrives, is a stylish, handsome man, with the accessories I’m starting to recognise as the hallmarks of the nouveau Tajik: a newish car, a…

My kind hosts didn’t understand the concept of travel for travel’s sake.  I only outlined my travel plans to Jyldyz once we arrived at her house, because she slept for most of the journey from Osh.  She was so perplexed at the idea I was going to Dushanbe for a holiday that I hastily invented…

Jyldyz and her husband were busy getting ready to attend their neighbour’s son’s circumcision ceremony, so she deputed her bother to drive me to Khujend.  Rather than dropping me off directly at the hotel, he decided to show me arguably the most impressive site of the city, and took me first to the Arbob Cultural…

I need to get from Osh to the Tajik border. For $100 the hostel has organised a car to take me the long way around to Batken, avoiding several small Uzbek enclaves within the Kyrgyz Fergana Valley. The bus and most shared taxis go the direct route, but only holders of Kyrgyz or Uzbek passports…

8am and I’m roaming the streets of Osh, Kyrgyzstan searching for coffee. I urgently need to get caffeinated before starting on another all-day journey, a shared taxi ride along the Fergana valley to Batken, in the far east of southern Kyrgyzstan.  Because I’m a foreigner without a Kyrgyz or Uzbek passport, I need to travel…