10 fabulous things to do in Rijeka out of season 

We arrived in Rijeka on a chilly day in early February. While Croatia’s third largest city is part of the Adriatic rivera (and considerably warmer than our home in Scotland!) it certainly wasn’t the weather for island hopping or lounging on the beach. 

Instead we explored the city, which has so much to offer despite being less famous as a tourist destination than Zagreb, Split or Dubrovnik. 

Rijeka is an industrial city — it has Croatia’s biggest port and a long industrial history. It’s even where the torpedo was invented and once the site of a now defunct torpedo factory. But that heritage sits alongside its gracious architecture, which is closer to the Central European style than some of the more southerly Croatian cities. 

Not only that, but Rijeka is preparing to become the European Capital of Culture in 2020. 

Here’s what to see and do… 

1. Eat out at Trsat Castle

Trsat Castle has to be the prime tourist destination in Rijeka. Standing on a steep hill overlooking the city, the castle is believed to be located in the same position as an ancient fortress used in Illyrian and Roman times. Originally built in the thirteenth century, the castle was reconstructed in the 19th century. Today it’s a short bus journey from central Rijeka and the courtyard now hosts a cafe with stunning views over the city, sea and surrounding countryside. 

2. People watch on the Korzo

We were just a couple of streets away from Rijeka’s pedestrianised central street, the Korzo. Despite the cool and often rainy weather, the Korzo was always busy with Rieka residents shopping at the smart boutiques or popping into the cafes for coffee or a spot of lunch. We sampled several of the cafes, mostly in attractive neoclassical buildings, for our morning coffee, hot chocolate and croissants.

3. Check the time at the City Tower 

Located on Korzo, the City Tower is probably Rijka’s most iconic site with its clock telling the time since the 17th century. As well as the clock face, it’s decorated with a stone relief of the city’s coat of arms. A two-headed eagle is clutches an urn, which is intended to symbolise Rijeka’s loyalty to the Austrian empire.

4. Go to the opera or ballet at the Ivan Zajc Croatian National Theatre

Another reminder of Rijeka’s time within the Austro-Hungarian empire is the Ivan Zajc Croatian National Theatre. Named after the Croatian composer Ivan Zajc, the stunning neoclassical theatre is the perfect place to soak up some culture — whether it’s opera, drama and ballet. 

5. Admire the architecture of the Cathedral of St. Vitus

Rijeka’s Catholic cathedral is on the site of the small medieval Church of St. Vitus. That was replaced with the current structure, a rotunda with both Baroque and Gothic elements. The building is so significant it was pictured on the back of the HRK100 banknotes.

6. Buy groceries at the Central Market 

As we went self catering, we did most of our food shopping in the Central Market, which even in February had a wonderful selection of fresh fruit and vegetables. Even though we’re vegetarian, we had a peek into the stunning art-nouveau Fish Hall, built in 1916 on the site of an even earlier building. 

7. Climb down to a rocky cove and watch the cargo ships go by 

Rijeka doesn’t have a city centre beach as the port is right in front of the old town. However, there are several gorgeous beaches at the foot of rocky cliffs in the suburbs, where you can even watch cargo ships going to and from the port. City bus No. 1 goes close to Fiumana and Ploče beaches, then take one of the staircases down to the waterside.

8. Learn more at the Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian Littoral Rijeka 

Learn all about Rijeka’s history as a major port over the centuries at this museum located in the former governor’s palace. 

9. See the stars at the Astronomical Centre 

Up on the Sveti Kriz hill, the Astronomical Centre has a planetarium and an observatory housed in an old Second World War fortress. Two stars have been discovered since the observatory was opened in 2001. 

10. Go shopping for local designs at BuRa

Browse some locally designed fashions at stores including the BuRa design store or some of the Croatian outlets at the Tower Center shopping mall. There are also some great gifts at Croatia in a Box.