6 views showing how Tirana changed in the last 11 years 

I visited Tirana in autumn 2007 and again 11 years later in autumn 2018. In those years, Tirana had become a lot more prosperous and the construction activity made some parts of the city hard to recognise — but the city still had the same exciting energy I remembered

The biggest change for me was that the electricity generators on the pavements outside shops, cafes and residential buildings that pumped out petrol fumes and a deafening noise back in 2007 were no longer there in 2018 as the electricity supply was a lot more reliable.

Here are some snaps I took of central Tirana, mostly in and around Skanderbeg Square, on both trips. Some sights are almost unchanged; others are very different.

Traffic

A mostly empty road driving into the city in a furgon (minibus) in 2007; a Tirana street clogged with traffic in 2018. 

Skanderbeg monument

The monument to Albanian national hero Skanderbeg, who led the resistance against the Ottoman empire in Albania and other Balkan countries in the 15th century. This monument was put up in Tirana’s central Skanderbeg Square in 1968, the 500th anniversary of Skanderbeg’s death. 

The Blloku district

Fountains in the Blloku district. During the communist era it was a closed off area for high officials. Now it’s a pleasant (albeit expensive) area of the capital with plenty of designer shops, cafes and fancy restaurants. In 2007 I had a beer at a cafe by the fountain. In 2018 I took my daughter on the mini fairground rides.

The National Theatre of Opera and Ballet of Albania

Opened in 1953, the building itself hasn’t changed between the two pictures, and nor has the Tirana International Hotel & Conference Centre in the background. The big difference is that between 2007 and 2018 Skanderbeg Square was pedestrianised. When I took the second picture, a funfair was being set up in the square. 

Et’hem Bej Mosque

Also on Skanderbeg Square, Et’hem Bej Mosque is a Tirana landmark that was built in the late 18th century. When it was reopened in 1991, 10,000 people turned up. In 2018, it was being renovated. 

The National History Museum

The National History Museum is Albania’s largest museum, telling the story of the Albanian people since ancient times. Above the entrance is this stunning socialist-era mural. 

Resurrection Cathedral

I’m not 100% sure but I think the earlier picture shows the Orthodox Resurrection Cathedral under construction. (If anyone can tell me if I have that right, please comment below!) It was consecrated in 2014. I visited in 2018, when I was travelling with a Romanian Orthodox Christian friend.