OFF THE BALKAN TRACK: Sunrise over Split 

Ryanair flight to Pula: £20

Airport bus: HRK25 

Bus to Split: HRK150 

Seeing the golden early morning sun on the palms that line Split Harbour? Priceless 

To borrow a format from the MasterCard ads that how I felt when I finally got off the bus in Split, Croatia after a highly uncomfortable overnight ride from Pula. 

Almost immediately I had a sense of the ancient city, as I wandered by the harbour then through a stone archway into the Old Town.  

Situated on the eastern shore of the Adriatic Sea, Split has been an important trading port and cultural centre for centuries, and the Old Town is a testament to its rich past.

The Old Town is actually located within the walls of the ancient Diocletian’s Palace, which was built in the 4th century AD by the Roman Emperor Diocletian.

I only had a short time in Split and used it to explore the Old Town with its maze of narrow streets, alleyways and courtyards. It was startling to suddenly happen on bits of Roman remains among the medieval city. 

I passed many shops, restaurants and cafes, all of them unfortunately closed. At one bakery there were tempting looking heaps of brioches and croissants piled up. 

“After seven,” said the proprietor in English, seeing me looking. 

But by seven I was back at the bus station, sipping a tiny black coffee as I waited for my next bus, to Mostar in neighbouring Bosnia.